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	<title>Khymos &#187; butter</title>
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	<link>http://blog.khymos.org</link>
	<description>- dedicated to molecular gastronomy</description>
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		<title>TGRWT #12: Chanterelle pie with apricots</title>
		<link>http://blog.khymos.org/2008/12/01/tgrwt-12-chanterelle-pie-with-apricots/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.khymos.org/2008/12/01/tgrwt-12-chanterelle-pie-with-apricots/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Dec 2008 09:23:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Martin Lersch</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[flavor pairing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[molecular gastronomy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[recipe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[TGRWT]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[apricot]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[butter]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chanterelle]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[earthy note]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mushroom]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pie]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.khymos.org/?p=517</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[In the end I was able to find fresh chanterelles and therefore ready for TGRWT #12 with a last minute preparation and blogpost (the round-up of TGRWT #12 has already been posted). The chanterelles were imported from Poland and quite expensive and I was eager to smell them and see if I could recognize the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href='http://blog.khymos.org/wp-content/2008/11/chanterelle-1.jpg'><img src="http://blog.khymos.org/wp-content/2008/11/chanterelle-1.jpg" alt="" title="chanterelle-1" width="450" height="450" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-518" /></a></p>
<p>In the end I was able to find fresh chanterelles and therefore ready for <a href="http://tri-2-cook.blogspot.com/2008/10/tgrwt-12-chanterelle-and-apricot.html">TGRWT #12</a> with a last minute preparation and blogpost (the <a href="http://tri-2-cook.blogspot.com/2008/11/tgrwt-12-roundup.html">round-up</a> of TGRWT #12 has already been posted). The chanterelles were imported from Poland and quite expensive and I was eager to smell them and see if I could recognize the smell reminiscent of apricots (as a commenter pointed out to my <a href="http://blog.khymos.org/2008/11/04/tgrwt-12-chanterelle-and-apricot/">announcement</a>: even wikipedia <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chanterelle">states</a> this fact). But to be honest I was quite disappointed &#8211; there were no traces of apricot aroma in my batch. But there was an earthy note. I tasted the chanterelles throughout the preparation, but at no point were they close to what I had tasted earlier and hoped for. <strong>But once I&#8217;d added some butter and pepper they where much better!</strong> Regarding the apricots I didn&#8217;t even try to find fresh ones and got the canned variety from the start. They were quite OK and I rinsed them with water a couple of times to wash away the syrup they came in. I imagined I would like to make a pie so I googled for chanterelle pies and quiches and found some inspiration there. And </p>
<p><strong>Chanterelle pie with apricots</strong><br />
<span id="more-517"></span><br />
<em>Pie crust</em><br />
150 g flour<br />
1/2 t baking powder<br />
100 g butter<br />
50 mL cold water<br />
pinch of salt</p>
<p><em>Filling</em><br />
300 g chanterelle<br />
30 g butter<br />
1 medium onion, chopped<br />
200 g apricots, sliced (I used canned)<br />
2 cloves garlic, sliced<br />
ginger, minced<br />
nutmeg, ground<br />
salt<br />
pepper<br />
1 egg<br />
50 mL cream<br />
grated mozzarella for sprinkling</p>
<p>Mix all dry ingredients for pie crust and work in butter. Add water and knead until even. Roll into a circle of about 25-30 cm and transfer to a baking tin or baking dish. Prickle base and sides with fork and bake at 180 °C for 10-15 min. </p>
<p><a href='http://blog.khymos.org/wp-content/2008/11/chanterelle-3.jpg'><img src="http://blog.khymos.org/wp-content/2008/11/chanterelle-3.jpg" alt="" title="chanterelle-3" width="450" height="450" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-520" /></a></p>
<p>Meanwhile, put chanerelle in a dry pan and stir fry them until they have lost some water. Add butter and onions. Stir occasionally. Add apricots, still stirring occasionally. Add garlic, ginger and spices and leave over low heat. Mix egg with cream/milk using a fork. Pour chanterelles into the prebaked pie crust, pour over egg and cream and sprinkle with mozzarella. Bake at 200 °C for 25 min or until topping is nicely browned.</p>
<p><a href='http://blog.khymos.org/wp-content/2008/11/chanterelle-composite.jpg'><img src="http://blog.khymos.org/wp-content/2008/11/chanterelle-composite.jpg" alt="" title="chanterelle-composite" width="450" height="450" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-521" /></a></p>
<p>Verdict: Despite the somewhat disappointing start <strong>the pie came out very nice with subtle flavors, slightly sweet from the apricots and with a nice bite from the ginger</strong>. The main contribution from the chanterelles was their characteristic texture, more than aroma. But even so, I had to have another serving and yet another serving&#8230; And only in my dreams can I imagine what it would have tasted like if the chanterelles had been fresh and hand picked from the forest. And yes &#8211; I would like to make this pie again some time!</p>
<p><img src="http://blog.khymos.org/wp-content/2008/11/chanterelle-2.jpg" alt="" title="chanterelle-2" width="450" height="450" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-519" /></p>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Lightstruck flavor in beer</title>
		<link>http://blog.khymos.org/2007/02/16/lightstruck-flavor-in-beer/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.khymos.org/2007/02/16/lightstruck-flavor-in-beer/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Feb 2007 20:14:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Martin Lersch</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[academic articles]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[molecular gastronomy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[science]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tips & tricks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[3-methylbut-2-ene-1-thiol]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[beer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[brown glass]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[butter]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[clear glass]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[corona]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[degradation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[flavor]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[light]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lightstruck]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lime]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[marketing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[MBT]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[milk]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[off flavour]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[olive oil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[oxidation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[radical]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[riboflavin]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[skunk]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[skunky]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sun glass]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sun light]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[thiol]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[UV]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.khymos.org/2007/02/16/lightstruck-flavor-in-beer/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Some years ago, a group of researches studied the formation of lightstruck flavor in beer (Chem. Eur. J. 2001, 4554). They found that isohumulones, compounds contributing to the bitter taste of beer, decomposed when exposed to ultraviolet light. In a recent blogpost, Harold McGee elaborates on this and it turns out that the way this [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Some years ago, a group of researches studied the formation of lightstruck flavor in beer (<a href="http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/cgi-bin/abstract/85514669/ABSTRACT"><em>Chem. Eur. J</em>. <strong>2001</strong>, 4554</a>). They found that isohumulones, compounds contributing to the bitter taste of beer, decomposed when exposed to ultraviolet light. In a recent blogpost, <a href="http://curiouscook.blogspot.com/2006/11/in-dark-olive-oil-milk-butter-and-beer.html">Harold McGee elaborates on this</a> and it turns out that the way this happens is even more complex than first anticipated. The researchers (<a href="http://pubs.acs.org/cgi-bin/abstract.cgi/jafcau/2006/54/i17/abs/jf060515v.html"><em>J. Agric. Food Chem</em>, <strong>2006</strong>, 6123</a>) found that <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Riboflavin">riboflavin</a> (vitamin B2) acts as a photosensitizer in beer (and in olive oil, milk and butter) which catalyzes the conversion of oxgyen to a more reactive type of oxygen (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Singlet_oxygen">singlet oxygen</a>). This oxygen then &#8220;destroys&#8221; isohumulone and in the process radicals are formed.</p>
<p><img id="image118" src="http://blog.khymos.org/wp-content/2007/02/isohumulone1.jpg" alt="isohumulone1.jpg" /></p>
<p>As shown in the figure, the radical reacts with sulfur containing proteins, thereby forming a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thiol">thiol</a> called 3-methylbut-2-ene-1-thiol or just MBT for short. The amazing thing about this compound is that <strong>we can smell it at concentrations as low as a few parts per billion</strong> (ppb). The perhaps not-so-amazing thing is that this compound gives beer a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skunked_beer">&#8220;skunky&#8221; aroma</a>. Obviously one would want to avoid this, and that&#8217;s why beer is sold in dark brown glass bottles that act as the beer&#8217;s own sunglasses. Canned beer of course will not go skunky (well not until it&#8217;s poured into a glass and served outside in bright sunlight &#8211; that will turn any beer skunky within minutes). </p>
<p>Unfortunately however, not all beer is sold in dark bottles! One well known brand is shown in the picture below&#8230;</p>
<p><img id="image107" src="http://blog.khymos.org/wp-content/2007/02/mex_beer.jpg" alt="corona.jpg" /></p>
<p>And yes &#8211; as you might have figured out, 3-methylbut-2-ene-1-thiol is present in Corona beer (and other brands sold in clear bottles, to a lesser extent MBT is also found in green bottled beer). For some references to &#8220;skunky&#8221; off flavours in beer check out these links: <a href="http://www.tastebeer.com.au/beer/43">here</a>, <a href="http://www.evansale.com/skunked_beer.html">here</a> and <a href="http://www.beerinfo.com/rfdb/#link3-2">here</a>. The ubiquitious slice of lime served with Corona beer is nothing but clever marketing since it helps camouflage the smelly thiol formed! (but how well does lime actually camouflage the thiol aroma?)</p>
<p>The take home message is: keep your olive oil, milk, butter and beer away from sunlight! </p>
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