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	<title>Khymos &#187; pasta</title>
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	<link>http://blog.khymos.org</link>
	<description>- dedicated to molecular gastronomy</description>
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		<title>TGRWT #9: Chocolate tagliatelle with parmesan cream</title>
		<link>http://blog.khymos.org/2008/02/25/tgrwt-9-chocolate-tagliatelle-with-parmesan-cream/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.khymos.org/2008/02/25/tgrwt-9-chocolate-tagliatelle-with-parmesan-cream/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 25 Feb 2008 22:13:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Martin Lersch</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[flavor pairing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[molecular gastronomy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[recipe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[TGRWT]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chocolate]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[egg]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[eggs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Masaharu Morimoto]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[parmesan]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pasta]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vanilla]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Chocolate pasta suspended for drying. For this round of TGRWT I decided to use the recipe (Chocolate Carbonara with Parmigiano Reggiano Cream and a Chocolate-Dipped Grissini Wrapped in Prosciutto di Parma) by Masaharu Morimoto which I&#8217;ve blogged about previously. I was quite intrigued by that recipe and wanted to try it! So here it is, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src='http://blog.khymos.org/wp-content/2008/02/chocolate-pasta-5.jpg' alt='chocolate-pasta-5.jpg' /><br />
<em>Chocolate pasta suspended for drying.</em></p>
<p>For <a href="http://lamiacucina.wordpress.com/2008/02/04/tgrwt-9-parmesan-and-cocoa/">this round</a> of <a href="http://blog.khymos.org/category/tgrwt/">TGRWT</a> I decided to use the <a href="http://www.starchefs.com/parmigiano_prosciutto_recipes/html/choco_carbonara_m_morimoto.shtml">recipe</a> (Chocolate Carbonara with Parmigiano Reggiano Cream and a Chocolate-Dipped Grissini Wrapped in Prosciutto di Parma) by Masaharu Morimoto which I&#8217;ve blogged about <a href="http://blog.khymos.org/2007/05/05/two-flavour-pairing-case-studies/">previously</a>. I was quite intrigued by that recipe and wanted to try it! So here it is, converted to metric units with some small adjustments. The original recipe called for 4 eggs, but this rendered the pasta dough to hard. I added two of the whites which were left over from the sauce. BTW this is why one of should better weigh out eggs instead of count them (too bad I didn&#8217;t think about his from the beginning so I could have weighed the eggs I used). The original recipe called for bread sticks with chocolate and prosciutto di Parma which I skipped (but which nonetheless sounds like a good accompaniment &#8211; as you&#8217;re probably aware of meat and chocolate also go very well together!).</p>
<p><span id="more-360"></span></p>
<p><strong>Chocolate tagliatelle</strong><br />
450 g plain flour<br />
4 eggs + 2 whites <em>(adjust according to size of eggs)</em><br />
55 g cocoa powder<br />
1 T olive oil <em>(leave out? &#8211; see comment in text)</em></p>
<p>Knead. Let rest for 30 minutes or more. Use pasta machine to work through dough until smooth. Roll out to desired thickness and cut into tagliatelle or spaghetti.</p>
<p>To start with the dough was not very elastic, so I immediately regretted that I had added the olive oil (which I optimistically added to the dough, hoping that it would perhaps help bind the crumbles together &#8211; only to discover that more eggs were needed anyway). The reason for this is that the olive oil <a href="http://blog.khymos.org/2007/03/17/practical-molecular-gastronomy-part-4/">interferes</a> with the formation of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gluten">gluten</a> because it covers the proteins glutenin and gliadin and prevents them from reacting with each other to form gluten. So next time I would try without the olive oil (or at least wait until after the dough had rested before adding the oil to allow time for the flour to be completely hydrated). </p>
<p><img src='http://blog.khymos.org/wp-content/2008/02/chocolate-pasta-2.jpg' alt='chocolate-pasta-2.jpg' /><br />
<em>I used a manual pasta machine to knead through the dough and make tagliatelle strips of the dough.<br />
</em></p>
<p><img src='http://blog.khymos.org/wp-content/2008/02/chocolate-pasta-3.jpg' alt='chocolate-pasta-3.jpg' /><br />
<em>The color is wonderful and handling sheets like this certainly sparks new ideas. How about a chocolate lasagna with a custard cream? </em></p>
<p><img src='http://blog.khymos.org/wp-content/2008/02/chocolate-pasta-4.jpg' alt='chocolate-pasta-4.jpg' /><br />
<em>When partly dry, the surface easily cracks.<br />
</em></p>
<p><strong>Parmesan cream</strong><br />
5 dL cream (38% fat)<br />
4 egg yolks<br />
100 g sugar<br />
50 g grated parmesan</p>
<p>Bring cream to boil. Remove from heat. Add sugar and parmesan while stirring. Add egg yolks. Whisk and heat to 80-85 °C. Serve with chocolate tagliatelle.</p>
<p><img src='http://blog.khymos.org/wp-content/2008/02/chocolate-pasta-1.jpg' alt='chocolate-pasta-1.jpg' /></p>
<p>Verdict: Very nice! Because of the rich cream, it&#8217;s a good idea not to serve a large plate of it though. As was the case last time I tried the <a href="http://blog.khymos.org/2007/10/28/tgrwt-7-cocoa-frico-with-cauliflower-cream/">cocoa/parmesan combo</a>, it was as if something was missing. Probably something acidic like lemon or lime. The cream is quite sweet, so the dish would probably work best for a dessert (but a guest I served it too said he wasn&#8217;t quite sure whether it was a starter or a dessert). I think a lemon or lime sorbet/sherbet would be nice with it! Or why not try Morimoto&#8217;s breadstick with prosciutto?</p>
<p>Tasting the parmesan cream by it self was quite surprising, because &#8211; believe or not &#8211; it reminded me of vanilla! In fact I&#8217;m quite sure that many would be convinced that it was vanilla cream (with a special little twist added). Certainly the color and the texture look a lot like vanilla, but the flavour also reminded me of vanilla. This was perhaps the most fascinating discovery and I&#8217;ll certainly have to explore this further. The weird thing of course is that once I start googling for parmesan and vanilla I find both <a href="http://gallumphinggourmand.blogspot.com/2006/03/large-chef-at-home.html">recipes</a> and menu examples</a> (<a href="http://www.bistroblanc.com.au/content/6/food-menu.html">Sour dough loaf with parmesan, vanilla &#038; truffle butter</a>, <a href="http://gypsydinners.com/seasons.php?season=summer_05">Fava Bean Custard with Parmesan/Vanilla Foam &#038; Grilled Belgium Endive</a>). There is nothing new under the sun <img src='http://blog.khymos.org/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif' alt=';)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
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